"The Chine Restaurant" seems to be an episode that most Seinfeld fans either love or hate. Well I love it and think it's one of the top five episodes they've ever made: one scene, half an hour, excellent writing.
One of my favourite lines comes from an exasperated George who can't believe the selfishness of the world around him: "We are living in a society!" So simple, yet so profound. Nevermind the fact that George himself is one of the most selfish characters in sitcom history ("You forgot to give me the change from the tolls" he says as Susan watches her father's log cabin burn to the ground in "The Bubble Boy").
George asks Jerry if he can "count on him" if he and the guy on the phone decide to go at it. While George moans about the state of the society we live in he is also prepared to get down to the basest instinct of humanity and settle the score with violence!
The theme of living in a cold and uncaring society is carried further by Elaine's questioning of the world we live in when a rude patron gets a table immediately while she and the gang must wait another "5, 10 minutes".
George relates to Jerry in excruciating detail the circumstances around the spat he's having with his current girlfriend, and concludes it with the surreal (paraphrased): "The only possible explanation I could have given her is that I am batman and, I'm awfully sorry, but I just saw the bat signal".
Jerry: "Who's Cartwright?" George, reluctant and confused: "I'm Cartwright." (I wish I could quote the whole dialogue George has with the host about this but I don't have it in memory)
Elaine compares her childhood memories of going to a restaurant to her feeling now like a big sweaty hog waiting for them to load up the trough.
"For fifty dollars I'd put my face in their soup and blow!" - George
"This isn't plans 1 through 8, this is plan 9! The one that worked!" - Jerry
And all of this without 1 of the 4 essential characters even being in the episode -- Kramer!
This is, if I'm recalling correctly, the first episode of Seinfeld I ever saw (in it's original airing) which is another reason it has a special place in my Seinfeld heart.
So please folks, before you dismiss this episode as dull and boring watch it again paying close attention to the dialogue, the nuances of the actor's performances, the dire straits of all 3 characters (Elaine is starving, Jerry desparately wants to see a movie and George just wants to smooth things over with his girlfriend) and the well played roles of all the secondary characters (the host, the rude patron, the phone hoggers).
This episode works on all levels and is a classic example of how fine writing and acting can carry anything.